Sunday, August 7, 2011

Good Memories


Right now I’m sitting on the ground in the international terminal of the Manila airport, a place that offers free wifi but very few benches.  My plane doesn’t leave for another five hours.  That means I have plenty of time to reflect on what I’ll miss most about the Philippines:

1.       The people.  It’s unbelievable how nice everyone is here.  I’ve commented particularly on the hospitality of lenders, but really almost everyone I’ve met has been kind and helpful.

2.       Lack of scams.  When I first arrived I was hyper-vigilant about keeping an eye out for tricksters, but outside of Manila that caution seems unnecessary.  I’ve turned into a very lazy traveler, just passing money to jeep drivers and waiters and assuming I’ll get the correct change, so we’ll see what happens when I go to somewhere less friendly.

3.       Motorcycles.  They’re so fun!  My foray into driving one was humbling and traumatic, but it’s really exhilarating to hop on board with an experienced driver and ride away into the mountains. 

4.       The fruit salad in Dumaguete.  I miss it very much already.

5.       The language.  The people in my three research locations spoke three different languages (Visayan, Cebuano, and Waray-Waray), but all of the languages included enough Spanish that I could usually follow the gist of what interview subjects were saying.  My favorite incident came when a woman said she usually spends money ‘para el abogado’.  I asked her why she needed a lawyer and she gasped – why hadn’t I told her I spoke Visayan?

The scenery is also pretty and the transportation network is good, but I’ll hold myself to five.  I’m currently facing one of the most tiring and constant challenges of the solo traveler: who’s going to watch my bag while I go to the bathroom?

I hope you all enjoyed these posts.  It's been an unexpected, educational and adventurous summer for me, and I really enjoyed writing about it.  I don't know when I'll start up the blog again.  My tentative plan is to return to China (to dreaded Nanjing) in August 2012, but who knows what will happen before that.  Hopefully something interesting will materialize!


Saturday, August 6, 2011

Introduction

I tried writing several final reflections but they all degenerated into schmaltz very quickly (‘sometimes bad events can be blessings in disguise’, ‘sometimes it’s more important to make friends than get data’), so instead I’m posting the introduction of my final report.  All sensitive data have been removed.  This is the first draft, so get out your red cyber-pens and mark away.

Cagayan de Oro is a town of 550,000 people on the northern tip of Mindanao, the second largest island in the Philippines.  A large, slow river meanders through the center of they city, dividing the central Divisoria district from bustling beehive of Carmen market, and its muddy waters wash up along banks dotted with Christian churches, empty billboards, and women doing laundry.  It’s a safe place for tourists.  Don’t go any further south, though; the central highlands of the island are home to Islamic separatists, a group that occasionally highjacks busses and, after serious thought, christened itself the Moro Islamic Liberation Front (MILF).     
            One of the most well-known moneylenders in Cagayan de Oro works from a small office at the top of a dark wooden stairway.  He sits behind a wide, wooden desk and cools himself with a small fan that is fastened to one of the salmon-colored walls.  He wore a loose black shirt and tinted glasses when we visited.  Sixteen years ago he had started selling appliances on installments plans in Zamboanga, another city in Mindanao where the locals speak a dialect of Spanish with unconjugated verbs, and over time he had developed his business to its current position: a fulltime XXXX, ## collectors, and over #### clients.
            Expansion wasn’t easy.  In 1996, when the lender was still in Zamboanga, he was stabbed by a client in a public marketplace.  The reason he survived, according to doctors, was because the six-inch blade was left in his back; if it had been removed he would have bled to death.  He spent several months in the hospital convalescing and then moved to Cagayan de Oro with his wife.  Permanently marked with a scar on his left shoulder, he decided to open a new lending business.  
            Why?, I ask.
“Lending is a risky business,” he smiles.  “But a good one.”

            Although lending may be a good business, almost all Filipinos agree that it makes for a very poor research topic.
            Informal lending takes place in a hazy legal environment in the Philippines.  Almost completely unregulated by the government, lenders are free to establish their own rates and terms but almost totally unable to enforce them through third-party means.  Intimidation and social pressure become the preferred methods of persuasion. A clerk in a copy shop, learning the focus of my research, told me that lenders were “bad people.”  A woman in the local government told me I “wasn’t old enough” to interact with them.  Among the general population the consensus was that loan sharks worked in one world, American researchers worked in another, and that it was for the best that things remain that way.
The situation came to a head on June 10th, 2011, when I interviewed a moneylender at a gas station on the outskirts of Cagayan de Oro.  We sat on small plastic stools facing the highway, and even though it was dusk I fanned myself with the survey papers as she answered.  After several minutes an old woman approached us.
“Go away,” she told me in English.  She had orange hair done up in a perm and wore a bright purple shirt.  “You don’t belong here.”
My translator explained that I was an American doing research.  Hearing that, the woman turned to the small crowd that had gathered around us.  “Always the Americans!” she cried out.  “They need to stop coming here.”  Looking back to me, she continued.  “Go talk to the bank.  Go talk to the co-ops.  This place right here is for Filipinos.  Leave us alone.
After a few days in the Philippines it became clear that lending was a sensitive subject.  Equally clear, though, was that it was an enormously important one.  Informal lenders operate in abundance here.  In Dumaguete, a college town on the island of Negros, my translator and I could take jeeps to nearby villages, start talking to vendors in the market around 8:30 am, and have identified four lenders by lunchtime.  Considering the huge number of easily accessible banks, the demand for informal credit is staggering.  Surprising, too, is the number of lenders willing to accept the risk of lending to their friends and neighbors. Every community I encountered supported at least one lender.  About 75% of the people that my translators and I approached over the course of the project immediately admitted to knowing a loan shark, and most of them could share with us a phone number or address. It may be true that lenders are bad people, but even so, they certainly are popular ones.
The purpose of this paper is to answer several questions about informal lenders.  First, why does the local population need so many of them?  Second, how do the lenders build viable business models in such risky environments?  Third, and most mystifying, what about lending is so appealing that even a knife in the back can’t keep a man away?       

Family members, you're going to be seeing a lot of this report, so if you want to save your edits for after I'm finished that's okay.

Good Riddance

It’s hard to believe, but I head home in less than 48 hours.  The cold that I thought I had defeated during the week redeveloped this morning, leaving me uncomfortable and grumpy.  I’m in the perfect mood to bring back a tradition I started in China: listing things I will not mind leaving behind.

1.  The food.  It’s just not very good.  Most dishes tend to be extremely salty, very sweet, and completely devoid of any fruits, vegetables, or nutritional content.  The exception to the no-veggies rule are the restaurants that sell single servings of pre-made dishes.  These restaurants are sometimes okay but usually very mediocre, and the best one I found made me sick.
  
2.  Slow transportation.  There are no official jeepney stops, so when you want the driver to pull over you just shout out ‘stop!’  This sounds convenient, but it just means that the jeeps have to grind to a halt every 100 meters because everyone is too lazy to get their acts together and just walk a block.  

3.  Being mistaken for a sex tourist.

4.  Lack of history.  Coming from China, where every single little village has some important role in history that everyone wants to tell you about (“we’re famous for crabs!”), I find it strange to come to a country where nobody seems to care.  I visited three history museums and they were all in varying state of disrepair, ranging from passable to pathetic to, tellingly, closed until future notice.  Other than that I saw a few old Spanish churches that had been completely refurbished and took pictures of some old American buildings.  That was it.  And I was looking for history!  I know a lot of it was destroyed in the wars, but still.

5.  The food.  Did I mention how disappointing the food is?  What kills me is that it has so much potential.  I spent a lot of time in markets so I know that there is a huge variety of local, fresh, delicious produce just sitting there, waiting for someone to cook it, but somehow those veggies always end up in something salty and sweet and saucy or, in the case of a pinakbet, a dish of pumpkin and okra that could really be something great, covered in immense gobs of terrible, terrible shrimp paste.  Historically, this makes no sense.  The two most powerful foreign influences before the 1900’s were China and Spain, two countries with really good chefs, so the food should be an amazing Chinese-Spanish fusion with tropical fruits and vegetables.  But it’s not.  Really, not at all.

The Philippines is a pretty awesome place.  I can’t really think of anything else to complain about.     

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Cavalry Hill

Today I interviewed more loan companies and cooperatives in the center of Tacloban.  Although tedious, these surveys are accompanied by relatively little data entry, which meant that I had an hour free in the afternoon to climb nearby Cavalry Hill:

The view from the top, looking over Leyte
The path up the hill is marked by the Stations of the Cross. 




The island across the water is Samar, a lawless land full of bandits (according to my translators).  Factoid: Tacloban suffers from a persistent shortage of coins because the only overland route from the mint passes through Samar and the treasury directors are unwilling to risk sending trucks that way.


Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Lazy Day

With only six days left in the Philippines I have come down with my first cold.  Faithful readers of this blog will recall the several months I spent struggling with recurring colds in China; the upside to that long, irritating process is that now I’m pretty good at hunkering down all day in bed and watching TV.  I do miss all the varieties of iced tea that were available in Nanjing and Guilin.  Hydrating here in the Philippines is no fun.